<%@ Register assembly="System.Web.Silverlight" namespace="System.Web.UI.SilverlightControls" tagprefix="asp" %> MISTBESQUE - Siamese, Oriental & Cornish Rex also now Peterbald
                 
Kittens:-

WE  HAVE KITTENS:  


We have kittens:-

¥
reserved   
¥
tentatively reserved
¥
available  
¥
not available  
¥
export only
 
Continental Champion
Chickitty In Your Dreams
of Mistbesque
Mistbesque Chitem WCF Gr Ch Siamesis Alejandro
Chocolate Bicolour Oriental
Variant Female
Chocolate Smoke (maybe no smoke) male ¥ available Black Van Male ¥ available
Cinnamon Silver Ticked Tabby female ¥ reserved    Black Harlequin Female ¥ not available  
  Black Harlequin Male ¥ tentatively reserved
7 December 2011 22 November 2011

Mistbesque Grand Baie  ¥ tentatively reserved  


Mistbesque Floreal  ¥ not available  

Mistbesque Takamaka ¥ Louise Koch


Mistbesque Nadia ¥ not available  


Mistbesque Insomnia ¥ available
   
Siamesis Alejandro Ilkins Davron Klarissa WCF Grand Champion Siamesis Alejandro of Mistbesque WCF Ch Samoa Gems Ines of Mistbesque
Black Oriental Male ¥ not available yet Chocolate  ¥ not available
Black female ¥ not available yet Chocolate ¥ available
4 January 2012 30 December 2011





unsexed ¥ not available yet
   
Siamesis Alejandro Mistbesque Amets Chickitty In Your Dreams Arbodiel 2 Hot 4 U
mating done in december waiting for chocolate spotted tabby bicolours very exciting mating done in december waiting in anticipation
SORRY WE DO NOT SELL TO SOUTH AFRICAN BREEDERS OR ASPIRING NEW BREEDERS due to inter breeder politics.

also, please note:

Mistbesque Cattery does not keep a waiting list!

 Mistbesque Cattery does not accept deposits.

Mistbesque Cattery reserves the right to cancel any booked kitten.

Mistbesque Kittens are neutered and spayed before leaving our home.  TICA ARTICLE ON NEUTERING AND SPAYING CLICK HERE

Mistbesque Cattery Kittens leave our home with a signed adoption contract.

Mistbesque Cattery does not pre book kittens that are not born as yet.

Our kittens are not available for reservation until they are between 8 to 13 weeks of age.

Please read at bottom of this page about breeding and back yard breeders

As we are registered with the World Cat Federation and The Independent Cat Association, we abide by their code of ethics as found at these links:

click here for the TICA Voluntary Code of Ethics:

TICA CATTERY LISTINGS MISTBESQUE ON PAGE 37

TICA VOLUNTARY CODE OF ETHICS

I am a member in good standing of The International Cat Association (TICA) and have a TICA registered cattery.

I will breed discriminately, and only if I can find appropriate homes for my kittens.

I will place kittens only in homes that I believe will provide a life-long commitment of love, appreciation, and responsible care.

Any kitten or cat sold as a pet/companion will be sold under the following conditions:

  1. I will guarantee that the kitten/cat is in good health at the time of sale.

  2. I will urge the purchaser to have the kitten/cat examined by the purchaser’s own veterinarian within 2 days of purchase to confirm its good health.

  3. If not done for some reason, I will require that the kitten be spayed or neutered NO LATER THAN 6 months of age and not be allowed to produce any offspring.

  4. I will explain to the purchaser the dangers of an outdoor environment.

  5. I will provide a written sales agreement that describes all the terms of the sale. I will abide by my own sales agreement.

  6. Should the kitten leave our home unaltered for any reason, I will provide the TICA/WCF registration application form and/or pedigree for the kitten/cat ONLY after I have received written evidence from a licensed veterinarian that the kitten/cat has been altered.

  7. I will encourage the purchaser to contact me if the purchaser has any questions and I will respond in a timely manner.

  8. I will not release a kitten until it has been inoculated against the following: Panleukopenia, Feline Rhinotracheitis, and Calicivirus. I also may choose to give other vaccinations.

I have read and agree to abide by the above Voluntary Code of Ethics.

 
PREVIOUS 2010 LITTERS
also see our:
previous kitten gallery
babies living in their forever homes (babies that has left us this year)
thank you to their new owners for the messages in my guestbook and the pictures on this site
soon to be updated!

Mistbesque Monster Ball
Black Bicolour

living with Anna Waldeck and her family

Mistbesque Lady Starlight
Mink Point Bicolour Cornish Rex
living with Soekie Jacobs

Mistbesque Fame
Black Harlequin
Living with Dr. Louise De Villiers  (loves his older cornish sister)

Mistbesque Sebastian
Seal Tabby Point
Living with Soekie Jacobs
   

WCF Ch Mistbesque Rock Star
Blue Cornish Rex
Heli Tepponin - Piupaws Cattery - Finland (soon a dad in finland)

Mistbesque Power of Dreams
Chocolate Spotted Tabby Oriental Female
Jackey Walton & Tania Walligan (loves her doggy buddies)
   

Mistbesque Knight of Schroeder Castle
Velour Peterbald Red Point
Ketura Trower

Mistbesque Tempted Love
Chocolate ticked tabby silver
adopted by Ilona and Chathrine (loves the two yorkie puppies)




Mistbesque Honey Pot
Chocolate Smoke Oriental
Dr Johan Lamprecht and family

Mistbesque
Chocolate Tabby Point
Medwin Meiring and his dog (makes me think of
Garfield and Odi)

Mistbesque Fernando
Chocolate Oriental
Tanya Greeff

Mistbesque Roberto
Chocolate Bicolour
EJ Watson
   
Mistbesque Always One
Soekie Jacobs
Mistbesque Always
Soekie Jacobs
   
Mistbesque Always Ayoba
Johan
Mistbesque Americano
Pieter and Louise Koch
   
Mistbesque Marry the Knight
Kylie de Klerk (readopted by mistbesque)
Mistbesque Bloody Mary
Bridget Koch (daughter of Pieter and Louise
   
Mistbesque Sweet Romance
Choc Ticked Tabby
living with Belinda Lewis
Mistbesque Snowbunny
Chocolate Silver Ticked Tabby and White
living with Belinda Lewis
Local Kitten Enquiries:
feel free to contact the following people should we not have kittens:
(click on their name to go to their email address)

ORIENTAL, SIAMESE & PETERBALD

Johan Lamprecht - (Les Beaux Chats Cattery) - Siamese, Oriental) also Thai [old style siamese] and various other breeds

Enid Ashley (Ashways Cattery) - siamese , oriental (also tonkinese)
http://www.ashways.co.za

Johan Groenewald (Taldi Cattery - siamese (also Devon Rex and sphynx) http://www.taldi.co.za

Marie du Plooy (Du Plo cattery) - siamese , oriental

Eurica Teichman (Samoa Gems Cattery) - siamese

Russel Spargo (WideSkies Cattery) - siamese , oriental (also  Bengal, Devon Rex) http://wideskies.weebly.com

Wanda Fuka (Orion's Cattery) - siamese

Ronnie Gerber (Ilkins Cattery) - siamese (also Burmese)
Do Not be Misled!!! Cat Breeding is not as easy as a Facebook Game!!!

Article Below copied from:
http://rfwclub.org/ragdolls.htm

Interested in Breeding?

Written by Linda Kauffman of Kauffman Kats

Many people who have visited me, and seen the darling kittens running around my house, have expressed an interest in breeding Cats. They see a family home that is neat and clean, and doesn’t smell like cats. They assume that breeding cats is an easy part time job that anyone can do. They also know what I charge for my kittens, and think there must be money to be made by doing this.

While I love what I do, I always tell people the truth about breeding. It is an expensive hobby that takes lots of time and work. There is NO money in breeding cats. That is the real truth about breeding cats the correct way, and for the right reasons.

Breeding animals should never be taken lightly. It is a big responsibility to take on. You are dealing with something that is alive, has feelings and you have to deal with problems just like raising children. You are also dealing with people who buy these kittens from you. You must have a good working relationship with people, and be able to pick the best homes for your kittens. You must be prepared to have almost an open house most weekends so people can visit you to see their kittens, or just to see a Cat in person, so they know this is the kind of cat they want.

Every breeder should stand behind the kittens they produce, so you want to make sure they are the healthiest and strongest kittens you can breed. Sometimes this will mean that you must pet out, or alter a favourite cat because a problem is discovered in the lines. That way people don’t have to go through the heartbreak of losing a very much loved pet, too early. EVERY breeder should only be breeding Cats for the purpose of preserving the breed of cat they are working with. They should always be striving to better the line of cats they are working with, by weeding out any health problems, preserving the temperament of the Cat, and breeding towards the ideal Breed standard at all times.

The proof of a breeder doing this is in the happy pet owners and in the show hall. While breeding for pets is very rewarding, a breeder who does not ever show his/her cats, or does not at least have someone else showing their lines, is not serious about breeding. Unless they show their cats occasionally, they can’t possibly know if they are breeding to the standard of the Specific Breed. It is very easy to get "cattery blindness" and not recognize that your cats are beginning to move away from the standards in looks, size and temperament.

There are too many cats in shelters and humane societies around the world, for adoption now. A breeder who breeds just for pets does the animal world a disservice. The ONLY excuse to breed Cats is to create or preserve something that CAN’T be found in a shelter.

Many of us breeders get calls from people who are interested only in having one litter "so the kids can experience the miracle of birth". This is a poor reason for breeding. There are many pregnant cats in shelters that you can arrange to foster until the kittens are old enough to go to their homes (after being altered so there are no more unwanted litters). This would be just as good of an experience for your children as buying a pair of cats to breed.

Starting a Cattery

One of the first things you have to remember when contemplating breeding cats is that your "breeding" cats are not necessarily the same as "pet" cats. Hormones play a very big part in their lives, and will affect how you can keep them. Very seldom can the males be allowed to roam the house. MOST male cats will spray if they are not neutered. Also, to be fair to your male, you must provide him with at least 3 females. Not to do this, is to subject your male to getting very depressed and possibly sick from not eating properly because of the depression. In the US, I know of NO reputable Cat breeder who does stud service…certainly not Kauffman Kats.

So, to maintain a whole male, you will need an area or a large cage that is waterproof and very easy to clean. The male should not be completely isolated however. Being a pedigree cat, he will need and crave your attention too. Some males only spray a little, when the females come into heat. Others are "hosers" who spray everything in their reach, including their own food dishes, water bowls, bedding and any person near enough for them to spray. No one can guarantee you that a male won’t spray. I have heard people being told that "if you only have one male he won’t spray". Not always true. Never get into breeding assuming that you won’t have to cage your male.

People also don’t realize that females can spray while they are in heat. A female cat comes into heat every 3 to 7 weeks from the end of January to about November. Many females are very vocal when they come into heat, calling out to any males in the area. Often times the males will call back to them, and it can make some very unpleasant, not to mention sleepless nights.

A female should only be bred an average of 3 times in 2 years. Females can come into heat when the babies are only a few weeks old, but they must not be bred again that soon. The pregnancy and nursing are very hard on the female. Very seldom do breeding females, especially after finishing weaning a litter, look like they would if they were a spayed female. You can tell by their coats and their weights that they have just weaned the litter. There is no way they are ready to start over breeding for a while. Therefore, you have to make sure the male cannot get at the females while they are recovering from having a litter. As I stated earlier, a male needs at least 3 females to keep him happy, because breeding only 3 times in 2 years is not enough for him, but having more than this amount of litters is too much for one female in most cases.

You will also need a separate room for your kittens. The females should be isolated for two weeks before the kittens are due, and then kept with the kittens and away from the other cats, until the kittens are weaned and have had their first shots.

Breeding is a "Job", but Without Pay

Breeding cats is not just a matter of throwing down a few dishes of water and food, and then cleaning the litter boxes every so often. People often ask me "how do you keep you house so clean with this many cats?" I tell them the truth…"With hard work and elbow grease". It is a constant job that doesn’t stop all day long.

If I am not cleaning the house and the litter, I'm playing and socializing with the kittens and adults, or I am bathing a cat or two. If I’m not doing the physical work, then I am on the computer. I spend hours answering the many inquiries about kittens. Good book work is also necessary with breeding, (for tax purposes, litter registration and notes on breeding outcomes for my future references). A good breeder spends lots of time looking up information, or reading magazines on genetics, medical problems, feline housing and husbandry, to be the best breeder they can be. You need to keep abreast of everything that can and will affect your cats and cattery. I personally attend as many breeding and educational seminars as I can to keep up with the latest in feline husbandry.

Many people try to breed cats while their children are still young and at home. This is very difficult to do. Children take time, just like the cat’s do, and very often you must give up something from one or the other. As a breeder, you MUST be present when the litters are born. Sometimes a simple turning or dislodging of a foot on a baby being born can make the difference between a litter of dead kittens (and possibly MOM), to having 5 or 6 healthy, lovable babies and a mom who does well with the litter. When the due date nears, I confine the pregnant cats in an area (birthing cage) near my bed, and set my alarm for every hour to check on them. Since the litters can be born usually between 63 and 67 days, you don’t get a lot of sleep. Having to deal with children and their activities while you are not getting much sleep, sometimes takes it toll. It’s not impossible to breed cats while raising a family, but it is more difficult and should be discussed with the whole family before you start.

How to go About Buying Your Breeders

Like anything else in life, buying your breeding stock is a matter of knowing what you are looking for, recognizing a good cat, and also the old saying "you get what you pay for" applies.

Some of your best breeders are smaller breeders who take the time to show their cats, and weed out the genetic problems, and cats that do not fit the standard. These same breeders may be reluctant to sell to a new breeder. You can hardly blame them. They have put a lot of time and effort into their work, and want to make sure the person buying their animals will keep up with their standards, and most of all, give the cats a good home. These kittens are our babies and mean a lot to us. We have raised and played with each and every one of them, and they each have a piece of our hearts, whether they go as breeders or pets. Being a BREEDING CAT is not the best life for our furry friends, so we are very careful to whom they go to. We want to know they will have good clean quarters, the best food, plenty of attention, and not be over bred. I personally pet out every breeding cat I have by 3 or 4 years old, so they can live the rest of their lives as a cherished, loved and spoiled PET. I would expect the same from anyone I sell a breeder too.

You can probably pick up a few kittens for breeding at a lower price in some catteries. Some breeders don’t care whom they sell their cats too, as long as they get the money for the kitten. Many new breeders are "taken" by these people every year, especially now, since the Siamese*or other breed* is a popular breed. Beware of these people. They will sell a new breeder ANYTHING and call it a good breeder. A breeding cat doesn’t have to be perfect, but as close to the standard as possible. An experienced breeder knows the kind of things that get passed on from generation to generation and will not sell breeders with these faults. They may make wonderful pets, but for the price of a breeding cat, you should get excellent quality.

Be prepared to wait awhile for good breeding stock. It pays to be fussy and get a good start. It is up to YOU to convince the breeders who have the best cats, and care the most for them, that you will be the best breeder you can possibly be, and that you have thought long and hard about breeding. It’s up to you to learn as much as you can about the specific breed of cat and breeding. Most breeders are willing to help new people, but only after they know the new breeder is committed to doing a good job.

The very best way to start in the Cat world, is to buy a show neuter, and show him for while. This way you will learn about type, the standard, and living with a Specific Breed of Cat. You will see other pedigreed cats at the shows, know who is producing good cats, and get to know the breeders. It’ll make it easier for you to find someone you feel comfortable working with, and they will then feel comfortable with you. When you start breeding your own cats, you will want to show something of your own breeding, but a neutered show cat can be valuable to you now and later. Later, when your cats are breeding, and not in the best condition, you will have the show alter to let people know what their cat will look like when it is grown.

Also, before you buy your first cat, you should go visit a cattery or two, to see what a cattery is all about. It will also give you a chance to see the way the cats are raised, and if you approve of the cattery and the cats. What people tell you over the phone, or even in person at a show, may not be how they really run their cattery.

Be sure you buy your cats from a breeder who has been breeding for a while, and has shown their cats. A new breeder will not know a good kitten from a bad one. They just don’t have the experience. pedigreed cats take a long time to mature, and just because a kitten is perfectly marked, doesn’t mean it will automatically be a show cat. A breeder needs experience (with pedigreed cats in general, and with the lines they are using) before they can pick a good breeder/show kitten, even at 10 to 12 weeks old. An experienced breeder knows that no cat or kitten is perfect, and can (and will) point out any feature that needs work on. It will be up to you to put that cat with another cat to bring out the best in the kittens.

Mentor and Mentoring

An established breeder who is willing to mentor a new breeder is worth their weight in gold. A breeder who starts another breeder should be experienced, and willing to answer any and all questions, and be available when something comes up that you don’t understand. Make sure the person you are buying from agrees to ‘be there for you’ when you need it. The first litter is sometimes a very nervous time for new breeders. Your mentor should be willing to be ‘on call’ for you. PLEASE don’t abuse this. No one likes that, but there will be plenty of questions you will have, and the mentor should realize this, and be prepared to answer them when they come up.

It is very tempting to go on the Internet and cat’s magazines, and start calling to see what everyone has. If you buy one kitten here, another one there, and you never get to know any one breeder well enough to establish that mentorship. Look around first to find a breeder who’s personality meshes with yours, and who’s cats you admire. Get references from other breeders, visit the cattery, and know the standard so you can rely on your own good sense too.

As I said before, many good breeders are smaller breeders, and won’t have just what you are looking for, or maybe just one of a pair. These breeders usually have other breeders who are close friends they trust and like. They can usually help you come up with a pair, or more. If you stick with one breeder (after you have decided you like and trust them), you will do much better than shopping around. There are great friendships made in the cat fancy. Cat people are great. There are also some battles among breeders, but this is natural, as we all are very emotionally involved with our hobby and our love affair with pedigreed cats. Get to know as many people as you can, and listen to what everyone has to say. You will pick up ideas and tips from everyone. None of us have exactly the same cattery set up or way of doing things. You will develop your own as you progress too. The basics are the same, but no two houses or lifestyles are the same, so there will be some differences.

After a while, you can and will want to branch out, in order to get new lines to improve your own stock. The biggest mistake new breeders make though is to get too big too fast. I would start out with a pair, then add 2 more females. Keep the 4 for several litters, and then decide if you want to get bigger.

Too many breeders get burned out fast by starting out with too many cats, or getting too big too fast. 4 kittens running around the house doesn’t seem like too many when they are small, but when they mature, and the hormones start raging, you don’t want to be over crowded. We lose probably half of all new breeders after 3 years. This is the point where they find they can’t handle the number of cats they have, or can’t handle the ‘down side’ to breeding. Avoid keeping any kittens out of the first several litters. Remember, if you keep a female, you will need another male to breed her with. Then you will need more females for him. That means more cats.

The Down Side

For all the joy in having kittens, and the pride in showing your cats, there is also the bad times. You wait patiently for a litter, and something goes wrong. You lose some or all of the kittens, and mom needs a C-Section. A C-Section can cost anywhere from $200 to $500 depending on you location, or if the surgery is needed during office hours, or at the emergency vet. You can have a perfectly normal litter, and at 2 weeks one of the kittens suddenly starts to fail, and nothing you do can make it live. In just two weeks, you will have gotten very attached to the kittens.

Then there is going home time. That’s the worst time of all. After 12 weeks (I don’t recommend kittens leaving before that time) you get very attached to them. Even if you have picked out the very best family for them to go to, it is still hard to see them go out the door. I know of breeders who have kept the whole first litter, because they couldn’t let them go. The second litter goes to all relatives so they can visit often, and then they quit breeding, rather than face selling the kittens to strangers.

It does get a little easier after a while, when you know the people will just love them, and you get the pictures and notes back about how they can’t imagine not having the kitten. But you still miss each one for a while.

Another downside is losing a kitten you sold. This does happen, no matter how careful we are. Accidents at conception do happen, and a kitten is dealt with a poor immune system or congenital abnormalities. Cats do come down with diseases. As much as we screen for healthy cats, we are bound to lose a few. The worst phone call you will ever get will be the one saying a family lost their wonderful cat. It’s heartbreaking to hear the grief in their voices, and it breaks your heart as well. That never gets easier. It’s always hard.

Last, but certainly not least, is your spouse’s reaction to you becoming a breeder. Many spouses are fine with the thought of a ‘hobby’ at first. After a while and lots of money and time…they may not be as happy with it. A large number of breeders have had to stop their hobby, to keep their marriages intact. It’s too easy to get in too deep and too hard on the rest of the family when you do. Cat breeding can be addictive. A person could easily make cat breeding their whole life. That isn’t healthy for you or your family.

If You Make the Decision

If you decide you do indeed want to start breeding, then join as many clubs and computer lists as you can. Many clubs have nice starter kits, with genetic information on pattern prediction etc. They also have newsletters to keep members up to date on the latest information. This is a good way to keep in contact with other pedigreed cat breeders and keep track of who and what is winning at the shows.

When you decide where to go for your breeders, you should also have an idea of what colours and patterns you want to work with. There are different combinations of colours and patterns that will give you the widest variety of colours and patterns in the litters. This might be something to think about. If you like one colour or pattern better than another, then stick with that. It’s up to you to decide. Most of the colours and patterns sell easily.

Make sure the breeder you buy your kittens from sell you SBT, Show able to Championship kittens. Some breeders are working on new colours and patterns, by using out crosses. While this is OK, a breeder from these lines should never be sold (especially to a new person) until it is all the way to full conforming to the standard of points. Chances are if it is an earlier generation, it will still need some work done to bring it up to standard. It wouldn’t be fair to give this cat to a new breeder and expect them to know how to improve the next generation. Also, remember that there are Solid colour (non-pointed) pedigreed cats out there that are SBT registered, but they are not show able for Championship, and not popular even as pets. I wouldn’t recommend one to a new person.

Paperwork

Once you have decided you want to breed pedigreed cats, you have found your breeder/mentor, and purchased your cats, you will have to register your cattery with the various registration bodies. The three biggest ones are CFA, TICA, and ACFA. (and then the local South Africa ones: CASA, CFSA & SACC)  It usually costs about $50.00 to register your cattery. It is a onetime charge in TICA and ACFA, but CFA charges you $10.00 every few years to renew. You do not have to be a member of these associations to have your cattery or litter registered. However, it is a good idea to join as a member, not just your cattery. You will get their magazines and know what is going on in the associations, and how it will affect your breed. You will also be able to vote and have a say in the future of your breed.

Once you get your cattery registered, you can register your cats. Your cat will come with a litter registration paper. It will have the name of the cattery you bought the cat from, with blank spaces for you to fill out the cat’s name and your cattery name. So the cat’s full name will contain, the breeders cattery first, the cat’s ‘call name’ second, and your cattery third. Any kittens you produce from these cats will have your cattery name first. That way, people can tell at a glance who the breeder is and who the owner is. If you keep your own kittens, then your name will go first, with just the call name. That means you are both the breeder and owner.

When you have a litter, you must fill out a litter registration for the litter. It consists of information on the parents and the kittens born. You then send this in (along with the registration fee), and they will send you back a slip for each kitten. You will sign these and fill out the sex and colour for the people who buy these kittens.

If you’ve gotten this far, and are still interested in breeding, then you may have what it takes to become a breeder. No matter where you go to purchase your cats, I wish you all the luck and blessings in the world, and hope to see you at a show sometime.

 
 Back Yard Cat Breeders  vs. Registered Breeders
article from: http://www.cat-world.com.au/registered-vs-backyard-breeders

Registered breeders vs. backyard breeders can be a very emotive subject for cat lovers.  What are the differences between the two and is anyone whose cat has had a litter of kittens a backyard breeder?

Let’s start by looking at definitions of these terms:

The term “registered breeder” denotes that a person is a member of one of the numerous cat registering bodies with Australia.  These are located in all states of Australia and have similar aim and objectives,  cat welfare being the most important.  Being a member of a club does not automatically make you a registered breeder.  Registered breeders have a cattery prefix or suffix to identify themselves and registered their cats using these names.  They only breed purebred cats according to the recognized standards set out by their registering club. All their breeding cats are registered and have registration papers.  Registered breeders should adhere to the rules and regulations of their clubs concerning the keeping and selling of their cats.

The term
“backyard breeder” denotes a person who breeds cats and is not a member of a cat registering body and does not have a cattery prefix.  They may have purebred or domestic cats.  If they have purebred cats, their cats may have originally come from a registered breeder who sold the kittens as pet only without papers, expecting the new owners to have the kittens desexed.  They might have been given a kitten by a friend and decided they want to have kittens of their own. Or, in some cases, they see cat breeding as a way to make money, because they see lots of kittens in pet shops selling for high prices.  To these people, cats are a commodity, not an animal.

What are some of the differences between these two types of cat breeders?

Registered Breeder Backyard Breeder
Belongs to a cat club
Does not belong to a cat club

Breeds only registered purebred cats of the same breed

Breeds any type of cat

Breeds to improve their breed

Breeds for money or “love” of cats

Knows about the genetic problems of their breed and works to eliminate them from the breed

Has little or no knowledge of any genetic problems and puts any two cats together

Is knowledgeable about possible health problems and seeks veterinary advice as soon as required

Has little or no knowledge of heath problems and does not take a sick cat to a vet either out of ignorance or to save money

Screens potential new owners and tries to match the kitten/cat with the best home.

Sells to anyone who pays the asking price

Gives out health, vaccination and historical information on the kitten/cat at the time of sale. Is always available to the new owners for information, advice, etc.

Sells the kittens/cats with no information or assistance to the new owners.

Takes back or assists in rehoming a kitten/cat that has been previously sold if the need arises

Does not want to know about the kitten/cat after it has gone to its’ new home

Whether someone sells their kittens undesexed cannot be used to differentiate between a registered breeder and backyard breeder, nor whether someone sells their kittens to pet shops.

Early desexing (from 7 weeks of age) is a topic of great debate between breeders, rescue organizations and vets.  Advocates for early altering believe it contributes to reducing the number of kittens and cats in shelters.  Advocates against it believe that it subjects the kittens to various risks due to their physical immaturity.  It is true that the vast majority of backyard breeders sell their kittens undesexed, many registered breeders do as well.  The difference is that most registered breeders sell with a desexing contract that is signed by both parties when the kitten is sold.

Some registered breeders own pet shops and sell their own kittens in their shops.  Other registered breeders do sell to pet shops.  Not every cat registering body has rules that bar their members from selling their kittens this way.  Registered breeders ARE prevented by the rules of their clubs from selling kittens less than 10 weeks of age.  Backyard breeders will sell kittens to pet shops at eight weeks.  Where someone sells their kittens has little to do with their status as a cat breeder.

Not every non registered breeder can be classed as a backyard breeder.  There is another type of breeder who falls between these two categories.  This is the breeder who once registered with a cat club, but for whatever reason decided not to continue their membership.  They still have registered cats and may breed only one of two litters a year and they have the knowledge gained while a member of a registered club.   They cannot be called a registered breeder, but neither are they backyard breeders churning out kittens for the pet market.

There is also the person who, due to ignorance, lets their female cat have a litter.  This may happen because they do not have her desexed before she comes into heat and she is allowed to roam outside or because they wrongly believe a female cat should have “just one litter” before being desexed.   They are not backyard breeders, just misguided in their knowledge of cats.  Most will have their female desexed after one litter.  If they do not, they can then be classed as backyard breeders.

In conclusion:

  • Registered breeders improve their breed for the good of the cat.
  • Backyard breeders improve their bank balance at the detriment of the cat.

Article written by Tracy of IceRegal.

further reading material on the subject:
http://www.petplace.com/cats/finding-and-choosing-a-purebred-cat-breeder/page1.aspx
http://www.catsunited.com/html/kitten_mills.html
http://www.unleashed.org.au/community/forum/topic.php?t=558
 
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